| A Bandsaw give you freedom to design and build | | | | halfway between the upper and lower wheels. |
| anything you want. If you want 5/8" drawer | | | | The blade will deflect easily for a short distance. |
| sides, you should have them. Resawing on the | | | | This sideways movement should be 1/4". If you |
| Bandsaw gives you the ability to cut stock | | | | push harder, it will bend farther but there is a |
| thickness quickly, safely, and efficiently. | | | | distinct point where it quits deflecting easily. If you |
| Resawing allows you to control the thickness of | | | | can deflect more than 1/4", then add tension until |
| wood. After resawing and one or two passes | | | | this deflection is 1/4". |
| through a thickness planer, you are free from the | | | | Stock Control: How does one cut straight lines? |
| yoke of standard thickness. Are you content with | | | | Answer: find out how the saw wants to do it, and |
| only 3/4" wood for everything you build? | | | | do it that way. |
| Resawing is nothing more than taking a piece of | | | | Every good bandsaw blade can cut straight lines. |
| wood and cutting it into thinner pieces. The | | | | Each blade will do so in its own way. In other |
| bandsaw is the ideal tool for this job. It is far | | | | words, each blade has its own "lead angle". How |
| safer than a tablesaw. | | | | can we determine this lead angle? |
| Its narrow kerf and vertical blade movement | | | | Some experts suggest using a Resaw Guide. This |
| make it extremely efficient. It wastes minimal | | | | is like a single point, which allows you to change |
| wood. Cutting is easy and quick. All you do - cut | | | | the angle of your feed into the blade. It takes |
| straight lines. A board with one square edge and | | | | practice to use this method. Moreover, this |
| side is necessary. | | | | technique requires constant attention. |
| Problem is, most woodworkers don't have a clue | | | | If you have to figure out the right feed direction, |
| how to do this. Successful resawing calls for | | | | why not just do it once? Then set your bandsaw |
| nothing more complicated than appropriate blade | | | | fence accordingly, and cut straight lines. It is just |
| selection, adequate tension, setting the fence, and | | | | that easy. |
| proper stock control. | | | | Ensure that the blade and fence are both |
| Blade Selection: As you saw through very thick | | | | 90-degrees to your table. Take a straight piece of |
| stock, you put a lot of pressure on every part of | | | | wood about two to three feet long. Mark a line |
| the blade engaged in the cut. Each saw tooth | | | | down the center. Cut freehand along the line, |
| shaves out waste. Blades with 3 teeth per inch | | | | trying to keep the cut on the centerline. Feed at a |
| (tpi) have large gullets which have room for a lot | | | | normal pace. Once you have it straight, hold your |
| of waste. | | | | piece of wood to the table. Turn off the bandsaw. |
| Thrust bearings support the blade above and | | | | You have found the lead angle for this blade! |
| below. During the actual cut, only the blade's | | | | With a pencil, mark a line on the bandsaw table |
| stiffness or "beam strength" will keep the cut | | | | along the piece of wood. Loosen the fence's bolts |
| proceeding straight and free of wander. It's my | | | | with a wrench. Set the angle of the fence along |
| experience that a quality 1/2" 3-tooth blade gives | | | | the pencil line of the test cut. Tighten your bolts. |
| good results. I tried wider blades with no increase | | | | Your fence is now set for the blade's correct lead |
| in efficiency. | | | | angle. This gives you straight cuts. Set once and |
| Tension: Adequate blade tension reduces the | | | | cut. What could be simpler? |
| blade's tendency to lead erratically under thrust. I | | | | You may want to practice your feed speed. It is |
| have found that the standard tension gauge is not | | | | a good idea to mark a line on your intended cut |
| accurate. It is better to use a little more tension | | | | for the first several boards. It just gives you faith |
| than indicated. | | | | that the cut is straight. |
| You can check it by opening up the thrust | | | | You will gain confidence with this method. It gives |
| bearings and lateral guides. Back off both above | | | | you more versatility with your projects. With a |
| and below the table so they do not contact the | | | | little practice, you can't go wrong. Have fun while |
| blade. Crank the tension gauge to the desired | | | | resawing with safety in mind! |
| setting. Give the blade a sideways nudge about | | | | |